Grim, I agree with you about the back plate. Since it hadn't been discussed yet, I stuck with the "original start system must remain intact" thing. That seemed to be a strong point for some in the past. It is pretty easy to modify parts to make it look like it is there, so might as well allow the use of an aftermarket back plate.

Turn fins are certainly a worthwhile upgrade. I have tried a few different ones, but really none are better than the Grimracer fin! However, I do not see a problem with someone making their own.

I am not certain why you insist on keeping the 1/8" stub shaft. If someone wants to try a 3/16 prop, I say let 'em! I, as well as others, have tried many prop combinations but return to the Grimracer prop anyway.

At any rate, In my last four posts I think that I have included most of the issues that people have brought up...with the exception of rudder, backplate, cowling mods and race rules...

Tim

Figured that I better show how I modified Jeff's suggestion for clarity sake.

Sport RTR 18 Hydro Rules

I. Intent The intent of this class is to provide a low cost, highly competitive class of racing radio controlled model boats. The rational for making such a class is to provide a place for new boaters to experience our hobby, and yet be an attractive class to even the most seasoned racer. These goals are accomplished by making the class both low in cost using readily available high volume production boats and parts, and by keeping the rules up to date to allow all boats to have the same performance level. II) Legal Ready to Run (RTR) Boats A)It must be intended for the R/C hobby market B.It must be distributed to and available from hobby shops and e-commerce nationwide. C)The boat/engine/radio system must be available as a ready to run package retailing for a maximum of $400.00. D)The boat as designed and sold must use nitro power not to exceed 0.18 (0.189?) cubic inches (3.0cc). E)It must be a full-body hydroplane 1)It cannot resemble outrigger hydroplanes, tunnel hulls or catamarans. 2)The hull must be a 3 point suspension hull, at least 25 inches and no more than 33(?) in length. III) Legal Modifications A) Changing the boats paint scheme/graphics is encouraged, as long as it is not profanity or offensive. B. Engine 1) Use of any engine from any legal boat as outlined in section II is allowed 2) Engine starting system can be upgraded, including changing flywheel and cable coupler. However, the original starting system (pull start, Tiger Drive) must remain intact. C) Use of any Exhaust/Tuned pipe from any legal boat as outlined in section II is allowed. D) Any control equipment including radio box, electronics, linkages, and battery may be used, Radio box may be modified or changed, but must remain in the original location. E) Any percentage nitro fuel may be used. F) Any Glow plug may be used. G) Any turn fin/bracket may be used...home made or production H) Prop 1) Any prop may be used 2) Prop may, and should be, balanced and sharpened. I) Any prop shaft may be used, as well as any 1/8" or 3/16" stub shaft J) Any strut may be used, as long as it extends the exact distance from the transom as the original manufacture. K) Fuel tanks may be changed, but must remain in the stock location. L) Paint may be scuffed on ride surfaces. M) You may sharpen and polish hardware N) You may change any silicone part, such as the fuel line or pipe coupler. O) Weights may be added to the interior or exterior of hull to aid in stability. P) INTERNAL bracing may be added to the hull to promote longevity. IV) What is Illegal? A) You cannot modify the engine. B. You cannot modify the hull or remove detail parts. 1) Rear wings must remain intact 2) Additional wings, spoilers, air dams, or fins if deemed to stabilise the boat at speed are NOT allowed. C) No third channel fuel mixture is allowed. V) 5 or 6 laps? Mill or no Mill? Penalties

The real reason for the prop is that give ALL about 3 to choose from.. again enough to learn but close enough they are the same.

It also helps control just one more of the many changes we are listing.. lots for the new guy to learn..

Grim

Any strut.. is this necessary?

"Any strut.. is this necessary?"

Personally, I say the original strut must be used. As well as the rudder. This is coming from a guy that has experienced a broken strut, rudder, rudder mount, and tiller arm...all from the same "built on the Monday after Chinese New Year boat". Not bashing just saying...Heck I own two original Vegas and two Deuces.

But I speak for the people! =)

Tim,

Can you fill me in on how the heck the strut broke (wow).. that would be a first for me.

Thanks in advance

Grim

Michael, I wish I knew exactly what happened. The only thing I can tell you is that I rounded a corner and the boat suddenly acted a bit "woobly". As far as I could tell, I did not hit anything. The break was just above the stub shaft carrier...sorry I do not have a more suitable term for this. This is apparently not common; However I have witnessed the same thing happen to another Deuce at the same pond on the same day...Anyway, (again) I am for keeping the stock strut.

Another issue that I have witnessed is a "wallering out" of the "stub shaft carrier", which I would attribute to either an in-balanced prop, an ill fitting strut bushing, or not lubing the flex-shaft properly. This particular part is clearly different than the rudder, which is a cast part I am sure you are certainly aware of.

To all...I do want to express the fact that I am not trying dominate this discussion...nor do I have any affiliation with Aquacraft or any other such entity. I certainly do not expect what I have posted to be deemed as "de Facto" I am merely attempting to help create a set of rules that will propagate an introductory class to the IMPBA and our hobby/sport. Furthermore, it is not my intent to alienate anyone from this discussion...after-all I am just a beginner myself...

BTW, this post refers to Item III J from post #81

Thanks for your input Tim,we as a group need to make the call on rules but id sure like to hear from other clubs..... I will miss the fall finale and would like someone to ask in the drivers meeting for others to post here or email me there thoughts.20 boats at our last race tells me we are close Mike PS dont forget to vote for District Director....

Timothy Strange wrote:


Hum.. not sure if the part builds a stress riser during machining or what.... the parts.. all of them expect the rudder are extruded.

Again.. there is more to it then that.. sloppy bushings.. trust me.. this one is one of the toughest we have to deal with.. seems silly right.

Anyway..

Grims goal.. better hardware and it HAS BEEN for the last 5 years..

ROCKET AND ROLL

Grim

So far I like what I seen, I would like to see the motor and exhaust completely stock, use the pipe as it came in the box, no motor mods. As far as the original starting method, I think it should be in place but does NOT have to be fully functional. I see no problem with making the pull start a non factor. The only other thing relates to the half mill and the number of laps. I think the half mill should stay in place, it does promote better racing, I have said before I dont think it's that hard to learn the clock, I would however, if the half mill is kept would like to see it implemented in the rules that in order to cut from front to back, it MUST be done to the left of the clock or starting line, whichever is used. I know that dont sound like a big deal but earlier in the year, there was a race that said you could cut as soon as you come off bouy six, I think thats asking for trouble. 6 laps, 6 laps, 6 laps...please, we hold enough fuel to do it.

What's the purpose of leaving the starter on if it's not functional? I say ditch it and put a backplate on it, no more worries of air leaks, or metallic grease from easy start being ingested by engine.